Professional angling coach Ian
Gemson in words, pictures and a video clip, teaches you how to
find the features.
IAN GEMSON
Ian
Gemson started fishing as a child for whatever came along,
mainly in the area of the Hampshire/Surrey border. He fished
for pike and later fished with much success in matches on
rivers, canals and lakes. Watching huge fish during the close
season and seeing a few being caught infected him with the
carp fishing bug.
Ian's friendly and patient personality led him naturally
into teaching. He has completed the Professional Anglers
Association (PAA) level 2 coaching course organised by
1st4Sport which officially qualifies him as an angling coach.
As a result of this accreditation Ian's company, Smart
Carping, is able to offer £5 million public liability
insurance and has passed the CRB (Criminal Records Bureau)
check.
Feature finding with a marker float
No two lakes are the same, indeed no two swims are the
same. When we look at the lake we are intending to fish, all
we can see is a flat sheet of water. Without knowing what we
are about to cast into how can we understand what rig will be
most effective for the conditions we are placing our rigs
into? The best method of feature finding is with a marker
float, braid and a dedicated rod that has been specially
designed for the task.
Rods The
marker rod should be able to cast as far as your normal carp
rods can cast. There is no point in skimping on this as you
will not be able to feature find at your full casting
range.
I use a Greys Marker rod which is a 12' rod with
a 2.75lb test curve. This rod is designed specifically for use
as a marker rod and has 6" and 12" marked graduations above
the reel seat to allow accurate depth measurement.
Greys 12' Marker rod, specially designed for
the task
Graduations of 6” and 12” allows
accurate depth
measurement
Reels A large spooled Shimano Big Pit
reel is filled with low diameter non-stretch, floating braid
(Whiplash Pro) in 30lb breaking strain. At 30lb breaking
strain the braid has the same diameter as 5lb mono which makes
it easy to cast.
The braid, having no stretch, will
allow you to feel the nature of the lake bottom, be that the
'rattle' of a pebbles or the smooth drag of silt, the braid
will transmit everything through to the tip of your rod.
Shimano Big Pit reel filled with low diameter
non-stretch, floating
braid
The spool must not be filled to the lip (as
you would with mono) and should always be wetted
before casting to minimize wind
knots
Leads There are leads available on the
market that are specifically designed for the purpose of
feature finding. However, as long as the lead is heavy enough
to cast to the range you are fishing to most leads will work.
Grubber lead from Wychwood -
specially designed for feature
finding
Floats A whole range of floats are
available to cover most eventualities: - Close up work -
Extreme range - Weed - Difficult light conditions
The float needs to be buoyant enough to pull
the braid through the rig ring and rise to the
surface, whilst not being too big so that it impairs the
cast
The Setup The lead is attached to a 12"
stand-off boom which comprises a quick connector at one end
which the lead connects to a large eye ring at the other.
We have a stand-off boom to prevent weed
from blocking the running eye. The eye allows the
line to pass freely through and connect to the
marker float
How do you use a marker float? Once you
have set up your marker-float it's time to explore your swim.
If you're searching for a known feature then choose a point of
reference on the far side of your swim or horizon, like a
tree, pylon or church spire. If you don't have any prior
knowledge of your swim then fan out your casts in an arc to
eventually cover the whole swim, making note of a point of
reference for each cast.
Cast out your marker-float, overhead style,
beyond where you think the underwater feature is by
aiming for your chosen point of
reference
Once the lead hits the surface of the water quickly flick
over the bale-arm and wind up any slack so that you're in
direct contact with the lead and marker-float. Keeping the rod
tip high, let the rod gently lower as the lead pulls the tip
down. Feel the lead and marker-float dropping through the
water, this is where a braid shock-leader and main-line is
advisable.
What can you feel? When the lead
touches down on the lake bed you'll feel the vibrations
travelling up the braid and down the rod to your hand. Mono
has too much stretch which suppresses the vibrations.
Touch-down The feel of the touch-down depends on
what the lake bed consists of in that place. For example, if
you feel a 'knock' then you've probably found gravel. If you
feel a firm 'thud' then you've found clay. If you feel a soft
'thud' then you've found silt. If you feel the lead gently
coming to rest on the lake bed without a 'thud' then you've
found weed.
Lead retrieval Once the lead has touched down you
then turn side-on to the water, pointing the rod at 90 degrees
to the marker-float and tightening up.
By using the rod only, pull the lead and
marker-float along the lake bed about 3 yards at a
time
The feelings/vibrations that come up from the lead will
give you an indication of what the lakebed consists of. For
example, if you feel a constant knock, knock, knock, then
you're pulling the lead across gravel and the rod tip will
bounce quite violently. If it feels like the lead is 'sticking
and skipping' across the lakebed, then you're pulling the lead
across clay. If it feels like the lead is being pulled through
'porridge', then you're pulling the lead through silt.
If the lead starts to snag up and gets harder and harder to
pull along, then you're in weed; you can actually feel the
strands of weed snapping as you do this. When you've found say
gravel, you can then explore how long or wide it is by casting
past it or either side of it using your points of reference on
the far bank or horizon and by using a marker on your line.
When you have found a feature you like the
feel of, stop winding. Holding the rod at 90 degrees
to the marker-float, loosen the clutch and pull line
from the spool 12” at a time whilst watching for the
float to surface
When you see the float, make a note of the
depth
Continue this process until you have a good idea of the
underwater features you have in front of you. Log these
features and depths in a book so that you can quickly fish to
these features in future sessions.
Marking the range
Tying a marker knot with pole
elastic
Pole elastic marker knot now in position;
slides freely through the
eyes
Knot lays neatly onto the spool and does not
impair the cast
Master these simple techniques to ensure you get the best
from your swim. With this knowledge you can ensure your rig is
right for the type of lake bed and your bait is placed in the
optimum position to ambush those hungry carp.
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Discuss this article, 1 of 49 messages, read
more:
Andy M
Posted: 15/01/08
13:54:00 00
Very nice article, clearly
presented but as with all such explanations of marking and
indeed many other comments/articles etc that are posted
regarding location of features they always leave a gap with
regard to measurement of distance. This article is a case in
point: put are marker on your line fine but then what? What if
you find two or three features in your search of the swim??
If I was going to map a swim I would surely need
depths and distances (angles as well for that matter but that
is perhaps getting too pernickity
Casting distance is a
related issue, we hear much of 30yds out 50 over 80 etc. How
do people know that what they think is 30yds is anything of
the sort?
I have set up a marker rod and was intending
to try ...